The Pennine Way

Thursday and the weather not as forecast last night. 

We set off this morning to walk by a roundabout route to East Marton. We walked away from East Marton along the canal and then doubled back along a farm track where we picked up the Pennine Way. 

The sun was shining and plenty of walkers were going our way - but faster! 

When we reached our destination we had been advised to pop into Abbot's Harbour Restaurant for lunch but, when we found where it was, it is closed on Thursday! I don't know - butcher closed on Monday - what next? 

Well, we continued up the hill and came across the Cross Keys Inn, a pub owned by the Copper Dragon & Greyhawk Brewery. In we went and, guess what, we stopped there for lunch instead. 

Now neither Brigid nor I are great sweet eaters, we normally go for starters instead. However, we looked at the blackboard and decided to be different for once. 

For main course I had Thai Spiced Seafood Tagliatelle. 

And Brigid had Sunny Monk, medallions of Cornish monkfish pan fried with green lipped mussels, crevettes, sundried tomatoes and wine sauce. 

For afters, mine was (nearest) "The Key's Favourite" raspberry pecan meringue, butterscotch cream and fresh raspberries. Brigid had Strawberry Shortbread - English strawberry layers with homemade shortbread, and vanilla mascarpone cream. 

The Greyhawk beer and draft cider were heavenly. 

After that we stumbled down the hill, back to the canal for a level walk back to the boat. No ups and downs this afternoon! 

On the walk back, a couple of walkers noticed Brigid's Othona T shirt and asked all about it and we ended up talking about politics, the Labour Party, the Conservatives, UKIP and the Liberal Democrats. Now that wouldn't have happened last week, I'm sure! 

Some more of the wild flowers along the bank. Other walkers said that C&RT had sewn wildflower seeds when they repaired a length of canal a couple of years back. If that's true, then, well done C&RT. 

And here's the boat just waiting for us to put on the kettle and settle down to an afternoon of tennis. 

A ray of sunshine

The good news is that we were able to watch the Federer/Willis match from centre court and the sun came out in Yorkshire.

Brigid finished her cooking and we had a turkey pie and a gooseberry tart, both cooling on the side. 

Pennies from heaven

Wednesday. 

You probably remember the old song: 'Every time it rains, it rains pennies from heaven. Don't you know each cloud contains, pennies from heaven.' 

Well, today, I'm a millionaire! 

The rain has set in and we are tucked up inside doing some of the jobs that don't call on being outside in the sun. Brigid is doing some cooking and I will be painting the stove bits that I didn't paint last time. 

The annoying thing is that we are right under a TV mast and Wimbledon may well be rained off again. We'll see at 1 o'clock. 

Rather wet view from the window. No hills in sight today! 

Yorkshire here we come

MTuesday morning we walked into Barnoldswick which, again, has plenty of small independent retailers and few large department stores. There is a beautiful square in the middle of town and we managed to stop for tea & coffee. Unfortunately we were a little early for the fish & chips which had been highly recommended. Ah well, next time perhaps. 

As we set off we passed the Esse factory, master stove makers since 1856. (Might have been 1846, have forgotten which). 

Look at the slope on these roofs. I'm fascinated by these terraced houses built into the slope of the hill. 

Another modern development using the local stone. 

Now, I've never seen a boat like this before! The owner was working away at the front adding another bit of woodwork. 

Now we are going down again. Here's the captain shutting the gate after the boat has bolted. 

Now, what on earth is that? It's OK, I know the answer, it's another type of ground paddle. On the top is a label saying 'lift'. 

And here is my paddle in the upright position. No windlass, just brute strength - that's why Brigid's is still in the down position. 

But, at the next lock, yet another type of ground paddle! What else may we expect? 

As you can see, the locks are set in some lovely countryside. After the locks the canal wound on past countless individual hillocks, some topped by clumps of trees, others by telephone masts. 

Just before East Marton a double-arched main road bridge. After that the canal snaked extravagantly around the humpy hills and we stopped at a quiet spot looking toward Tumbers Hill. 

We were also in sight of the TV tower at Langber. 

Which made the captain happy - she would be able to watch Wimbledon all afternoon. Well, at least until rain stopped play. 

Looking out of our windows we have wild flowers all alongside. 

Also, I don't have to worry about cutting the grass. Oh, the joy of being on the canals. 

Silent night?

Well, as promised, we walked into Barrowford and what a pretty place it is. 

All along the walls are well kept tubs of begonias. 

We managed a coffee and tea in Booths, an old established business but well into the 21C feel of things. The store and cafe are open and airy and nothing is overcrowded. 

Returning to the boat it was interesting to see the motorway as a backdrop to the canal and the old road bridge. 

We then set off and had to wait at Foulridge Tunnel (1640 yds) for the traffic lights to turn green. There is one way traffic through the tunnel and we had to wait until half past before we could go through. 

Further along the canal we passed an old barge, now converted into a houseboat. 

Never mind the clouds, look at the views. 

When we arrived at Barnoldswick, having been warned beforehand, we stopped well short of Long Ing Bridge. This would mean a slightly longer walk into town but the reason being that at the bridge was the Silentnight factory. This factory works all through the night and is far from silent. 

Once again, the towpath is very busy with dog walkers, joggers, walkers and cyclists. 

We have climbed to the summit

Sunday, a day of rest! Not if you're on a narrowboat! 

Again, the canal alternates between open country, towns and semi-towns. The wharf above another modern development. 

At Nelson we moored up right outside Morrisons where, as usual, be bought far too much. Luckily we did buy all the essentials. We then tackled the 7 Barrowford Locks, once again on our own. However, we had help from a C&RT lockie which made life much easier. The wind was gusting today and keeping the boat in a straight line was quite a challenge. 

This is the reservoir near the top lock and is starting to get low. 

Through the last lock and we are at the summit of the canal. From now, it's all down hill. 

Settled in now for the evening with roast pork in the oven, roast potatoes, cabbage and fresh peas. 

Tomorrow, if the weather holds, a walk into Barrowford. 

Where is Barden Mill?

We had been chatting with the folk from the boat moored in front of us and they had given us the low down on places where we could moor on our way up to Skipton. They also pointed out various stores, pubs and fish & chip shops along the route. 

By the time we got up on Saturday, they had long gone, heading toward the locks in Blackburn. The forecast for the day was for sunny periods with showers later on. Some of the showers came a little earlier than anticipated. As we were setting off we heard the familiar call of the curlew and saw one landing in the field next to us. We soon realised that there were quite a few other curlew hidden in the long grass. 

As mentioned before, the canal follows closely the contours of the hills and today was no exception. We had lovely views over the Calder Valley and twisted and turned our way towards Burnley. 

It was only as we passed a wide beam boat that we realised that it was a floating dry dock with a narrowboat inside it. 

The chimney of a disused mill being used as a mobile phone mast. 

Just past Hapton the canal crosses over the M65. 

Approaching Rose Grove and an old mill tastefully turned into apartments. 

Yet another old mill but this one awaiting redevelopment. 

At one point, an A road runs alongside the canal. It was a lovely feeling to overtake them all at 4mph while they sat stationery at the traffic lights. 

We had a short tunnel today, Gannon Tunnel 559yds long. Quite short really. 

Now we are getting close to Burnley and this is the Inn on the Wharf. The building just beyond it is an old toll house that now houses a museum. 

We're not too sure what this is! I think it's a boat but probably a houseboat. It doesn't seem to have any means of propulsion. The area we have just come through is known as Weavers' Triangle with plenty of warehouses, tall chimneys and loading bays. 

This is Burnley proper. We are on the 'straight mile' (actually only 3/4m), an embankment 60ft high above the town. It was shortly after this that we met another boat coming through a bridge and, because I had to reverse quickly, I fouled the prop with a plastic bag and somebody's pink T shirt. Not happy! Still, no harm done and I needed a wash! Getting down the weed hatch is no easy matter but I'm getting better at it. 

Here's a view of a typical northern village with regular streets of terraced houses. 

For the night, we moored up just past Barden Mill. Past, in more ways than one. There were signs to Barden Mill, a mill shop selling fabrics, clothes, crafts and gifts. We even found the overflow car park and entrance sign - but no mill! It looks as if it was demolished some time ago, the site being overgrown but with no sign of remaining stones, bricks or wood. A 'late' mill, this mill is 'deceased'. 

Somewhere, over the rainbow

Friday 24th. 

We battened the hatches and settled in for a day on the boat. Rain had been forecast, we were coming out of the EU, things looked bleak. 

But, not the end of the world! Brigid made some scrummy Stilton and walnut biscuits while I set to work cleaning the fire, ready for painting. New glass now in place and black paint slopped all over the place. Not a finished job yet but well on the way. 

The day wasn't as bad as forecast but in the evening we did have a bit of thunder and a marvellous double rainbow. 

Twists and Turns

Thursday 23rd June. 

Only 7 miles traveled today. The canal twists and turns around the edge of the hills and varies between heavy industrial development and green fields. 

Looking at the map you can see where later canal builders could have cut a corner or two, but then, much of the beauty of this canal would have been lost. 

At Church we passed the midpoint of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, marked with an appropriate sculpture. However, by the time we had fired up the iPad, entered the password, loaded the camera and it deciding to change the settings to video - the moment had passed! We missed it! I did offer to go back but this is somewhat awkward with a narrowboat, so on we went. 

There were 3 swing bridges, all operated with a handcuff key, windlass and upper body strength. I did one, Brigid the other two. 

We moored up for lunch on the boat and, just as we were finishing, a voice called out: "Hello, have you got a spanner I could borrow?" Poor chap, his chain has come off of his bike and jammed between the wheel and the frame. He had already walked 2 miles and needed to get home so that he could collect his daughter from school. Spanners produced and he was soon on his way. 

We stopped near Clayton-Le-Moors after Foster's Swing Bridge at a very nice mooring with views across the valley. 

All ready for a nice cuppa! 

No sooner said than done. 

And a lovely sunset to finish the day. 

More locks

Wednesday. 

After setting off from Riley Green, we passed a young chap taking his pig for a walk, as one does. 

I'd love to know if this is a one-off or a regular event. 

After that we saw to our right the home of Blackburn Rovers. 

Not easily seen in this photo but it's there. 

Then, as we entered the town proper, the locks. Only six of them but, once again, all quite heavy. 

Here's the winding gear to open the gate. 

A little more detail. Looks as if it should all make the job so much easier but, don't you believe it! 

Looking back at one of the Blackburn bridges. The canal was very messy here with bottles and takeaway boxes floating around, but then, most large towns have the very same problem. The water, however, was very clear. 

Freed from the last lock it's full steam ahead (at 4mph). 

Some lovely old covered warehouses, one now a pub/wine bar. 

There are several old mills flanking the canal, some in use, some abandoned. 

Once we had left the town we moored in open countryside by Side Beet Bridge No.106. 

A lovely sunset behind the hill. 

Apart from the 'towny' bits, the Leeds & Liverpool is a beautiful canal but we have hardly seen another boat all the time we have been cruising. Perhaps it's the Wigan Flight that puts everyone off, or the heavy locks, but we are certainly glad that we've made the effort to come here. No regrets, just aching muscles.