Wednesday, 31 May 2023

Through Harecastle Tunnel

Wednesday 31st May.

We've now come through 2 locks which has brought us up to the level of the Macclesfield Canal which we saw yesterday as the aqueduct crossing above the canal.

And we now come to Harecastle Tunnel where, in fact, there are three tunnels.

The oldest is that built by James Brindley which can be seen above. This tunnel had to close because of subsidence. 

The second tunnel, to the left of the original is the one that is used today.

The third was a rail tunnel which is now no longer in use.

Here's the other end of the tunnel which is 1.6 miles long and took us 25 minutes to get through. It's pitch black in there and, to make matters worse, doors are closed at the south end and enormous extractor fans turned on to aid ventilation. As you approach the end of the tunnel the doors open to let you through.

Stoke on Trent was the heart of the potteries and there are many old potteries around just falling to pieces.

Here is one of the old drying kilns, as distinctive as the oast houses in Kent.

This is Middleport Pottery one of the last potteries still in production in original premises.

We have booked a tour for tomorrow morning.

Aaaww! More babies.

And this is our mooring at Westport Lake Park.

Not a bad view from our window. We'll stay here overnight and move up to the pottery tomorrow for our guided tour. Should be fun.

Tuesday, 30 May 2023

Heartbreak Hill

Today we broke all the records. 2 miles traveled and 9 locks negotiated. However, we are in the right place for the tunnel tomorrow and that's what matters.

There are loads of iris at this time of year and they look so cheerful and bright.

Although the locks are mostly paired up to Kidsgrove many are not in use because of broken paddles, etc. We even entered an empty lock not realising until we were in there that it was not in use. Needless to say that I took the blame for that as it was my turn to steer today.

The water at Kidsgrove is this odd colour caused by local ironstone strata. 

And although it doesn't look much, this bridge ahead is in fact an aqueduct carrying the Macclesfield Canal over the Trent and Mersey. 

As it was reasonably early in the day the captain invited me for a drink and lunch at the captain's table. Not being a person to refuse the captain I accompanied her to the Red Bull where we had yet another excellent meal. (Which I paid for!) 

Then a short stagger back to the boat past the services depot.

And here we are all ready for a sunny afternoon. 

A light supper this evening, one of our favourites, pan fried salmon and orzo. 

Monday, 29 May 2023

4 miles & 14 locks

Now, you might not think that 4 miles isn't much to do in a day, however, it's the 14 locks that make all the difference. When planning a route you reckon on making 4 miles per hour at most. Each lock will, on average, take 15 minutes to get through. This works out as 4 locks in an hour. So, 4 miles and 14 locks should, on paper, take 4½ hours. We managed it in 3½ hours - not bad eh?

Most of the locks are paired locks so that you could have two-way traffic through them. That's OK in theory but it doesn't always work out that way in practice. Also, one or two locks were either permanently closed or awaiting repair.

So here's the captain bringing the boat into the lock. It was my privilege to work the locks today, I was chosen for the task by the captain herself. (No, she just wanted a rest!)

But look at the scenery we're now going through.

And the lock settings are very pretty.

Even the new houses fit in with the style of the canal.

Yet another lock and here she comes.

And here we are again, the M6 at a standstill while we plod on at 4mph. As per usual I wave to the drivers and passengers as they watch us speeding on our way.

Another lovely old cottage at Rode Heath.

We are stopping here for the night so that we get our timing right for our arrival at Harecastle Tunnel. The tunnel only operates until midday and there are 12 locks & 3 miles to go before we get there.

So we had a little walk around Rode Heath and found this decorated road sign.

And on the grass just behind, 3 (I believe) Muscovy ducks.

And another knitted pillar box! But, best of all, outside the village shop where we were able to pick up some much needed bread and milk.

And lastly, a picture of our mooring for the night.

Sunday, 28 May 2023

Sunday in Crewe

Walked into Elworth this morning to go to church with Matthew and Gail for All Age Worship at St Peters Church. A fairly full church with a number of families there.

After church, M&G suggested that we go for brunch with them. So, in the car and off we go to Crewe. I didn't realise how close to Crewe we were but, of course, transport does play its part.

It's strange that when you're on the cut you feel as if you're miles from anywhere and cut off from civilization. Look through the bushes and there's a whole new world out there. 

We were fortunate enough to see the Knife Angel which is on a national anti violence tour of the UK. It is a 27' tall structure created entirely from 100,000 seized knives and blades taken from the streets of Britain and it is hoped to inspire social change.

We then crossed the road and into Crewe Market Hall which has a selection of street food outlets. Order what you want from where you want and the food and drink are brought to your table. 

Because of the presence of the Knife Angel there was also a programme of entertainment including a dance group. All very lively and entertaining. Well done Crewe. 

After brunch, back to the boat, a quick change of clothes, cast off and move along to Wheelock to top up with water, empty the loo, dispose of rubbish and sort out the recycling. Phew! Picked up a mooring just before the first lock which is the start of what is known as 'heartbreak hill'. A total of 26 locks before we reach Harecastle Tunnel. And all that in the space of 7 miles. We'll have our work cut out tomorrow. 

Still, roast pork tonight, that should set us up OK.

Saturday, 27 May 2023

The salt mountain

You've got the benefit of two days in one. Yesterday, Friday, we stayed in Middlewich for the day so that we could meet up with Matthew and Gail in the evening. 

In the morning we visited the butchers to top up with a couple of steaks for Saturday and some pork for Sunday. Also pop into Tesco Express for some veggies. Unfortunately the large Tesco shop closed a while ago and the Express is a little limited in what it has on the shelves.

Outside, another knitted pillar box for the coronation.

In the evening, Matthew and Gail took us to the Creative Indian Kitchen and it was wonderful. The restaurant brings you true Indian cuisine to tantalise your tastebuds. (Copied directly from the website)

And, boy, they do. All the dishes are prepared to your liking. Brigid doesn't like anything too spicy and they presented food that she loved - and no aftereffects either. 

Now on to Saturday. 

We started off by travelling along the shortest canal in the system, the Wardle Canal which is only 50yds long. At one point, the Trent and Mersey and the Shropshire Union canals were not joined. Look online and you can read all about it.

But, eventually, the Wardle Canal was built. And here is Wardle Lock Cottage, a Grade II listed property.

Once again the locks are quite deep, this one at 9' 9".

The stone in the bridge says Wardle Canal 1829.

Coming out of the canal you take a sharp right turn on to the Trent and Mersey and straight into Kings Lock but, this time, going up. 

Above we are looking back at the lock and you can see that the canal is much wider here. 

Middlewich is famous for its salt products and through subsidence, because of the extraction of the saline deposits, the canal is wider and deeper in parts than others. 

And here we are passing a salt mountain right next to the canal.

The factory for British Salt Ltd.

I know I keep saying it but further on toward Sandbach, more new housing. Matthew and Gail assure us that there is a high demand for housing in the area.

And so we've moored up near Elworth so that we can go to church tomorrow with M&G. And look, lunch in the sun again.

Not a bad view from our overnight stopping place. Also, no other boats moored near us. Just as we like it.

With the temperature climbing to 20°C and little wind, we took a walk along the towpath to Wheelock Wharf and you can read all about it above.

No, not a pterodactyl but a microlight making its way across a cloudless sky.

Back to the boat for tea and biscuits.

Thursday, 25 May 2023

Arrived at Middlewich

With the Bank Holiday weekend coming up we have decided to move along to Middlewich, grab a mooring there and stay over until Friday so that we can meet up with Gail and Matthew in the afternoon.

But first, we have to get there.

Look at these old stables, long since converted into luxury des res. One's for sale if you want to put in an offer.

The babies are appearing more frequently, we also saw a family of Brent geese.

Well, here we are, tied up just on the outskirts of Middlewich. Had to fight my way through the grass and nettles to get the mooring chains in place but, well, we did it. 

In the afternoon we went for a short walk around Middlewich just to try and wake ourselves up. It's overcast and a lot of high pressure in the air.

All around the area are information boards and these imaginative seats. Well done Middlewich and/or C&RT for all your hard work. 

Back to the boat for a quiet afternoon with a bit of reading, a bit of snoozing and a bit more painting. For supper one of our new favourites, salmon with orzo and green beans. Delicious.

Wednesday, 24 May 2023

Onto the Middlewich Canal

Monday and Tuesday, very much a rerun of the outward journey, however with a strong, cold following wind. 

You can see how overcast the day was as we said goodbye to Chester. We've had an enjoyable few days in the area and will, no doubt be returning here sometime.

Although a chilly day, some fine views across to the hills in the distance.

Moored just outside of Tattenhall Marina on Monday.

Approaching Beeston Castle.

And, almost next to Beeston, Peckforton Castle with more romantic-looking turrets.

There's the captain concentrating on winding the paddles down. You can tell that they are going down because the safety ratchet is not engaged. When winding paddles up you engage the ratchet to stop the winding handle spinning round uncontrollably if accidentally let go. 

A mural painted all along the side of the boat.

Look who's coming to have a nose. Go on, back to the boat where you belong.

That's better.

Shared a couple of locks with two Americans on a hire boat.

Moored up just before Calveley after a long wait to clear the Banbury Staircase Locks. 

After an overcast day, a fine starlit night.

Wednesday and, for the first time, breakfast outdoors.

Not only that but also a fairly blue sky for a change.

Yippee, now on the Middlewich branch and, hooray, back to narrow locks.

Mind you, they're quite deep at 11' 3". But, ever so easy to operate.

Wisteria by the gates.

And lunch on the bank. 

We are at Church Minshull where we shall stay for the night. It's a lovely spot and we stopped here 7 years ago. The view has changed a bit but this is because the trees have grown. 

Decided to walk into Church Minshull to see what we have missed every time we've been this way. From the road through the village you can see the canal and our boat right in the middle of the frame. Don't worry if you can't see it, we know where it is.


We're now on the bridge over the River Weaver, the same river that we went on in 2016 when we went on the Anderton Boat Lift.

Here's the church.

And opposite a very pretty house. There is also a (boater recommended) pub, The Badger but we had to get back to the boat for supper. 

And this is the walk back to the canal. Mostly through woodland, a bit of pasture and not too much road work. 

Supper tonight was smoked haddock and cauliflower cheese.